Not just climbing enthusiasts, but even a person that's been on a climb at least once in their life, understands the importance of the carabiners. They may look like a simple hook that doesn't do a big job, but it's one of the most important parts of the climbing gear. It's responsible for the climber's safety during the trip. Different carabiners are created for different tasks, so it's important to know the difference. Knowing when and where to use each type can save your life and help you enjoy your trip.
Carabiner Shapes
D Shape
These climbing accessories come in several shapes and sizes, but the D shape is one of the most popular and commonly used ones. It works and adjusts well to almost any climbing technique. It's important to get high-quality carabiner hooks you can rely on during your adventure.
The weight you apply to them is positioned on the non-gated, inner side. When placed like this, you get a safe and strong carabiner, no matter what size it is. What makes them easy to handle and get things on and off, is their big gate opening. They're also very versatile and durable. Plus, they’re budget-friendly and lightweight when compared to the other shapes.
Asymmetric D Shape
This is a well-known term to experienced climbers, but they’re also known as offset or modified D carabiners. They differ from a typical D shape in that one end is smaller than the other. This difference in shape helps this carabiner to reduce its weight and distribute it evenly. The larger opening gives you more room to manoeuvre it and makes it simpler to clip anything you need. Because it’s strong and lightweight, this carabiner is great for quickdraws and personal anchor systems.
Pear Shape
Pear-shaped ones resemble asymmetric D-shaped carabiners a lot. The rope gets in and out with ease because it has a big opening in the front. You can use them as anchor points for top roping and multi-pitch climbing. But their main purpose is rappelling and belaying. They're bigger and heavier than the other carabiners in this category and are also known as HMS carabiners.
Oval Shape
Oval carabiners are the most fragile of them all, yet they are still very handy. They're great for racking protection because they can fit several nuts or pitons on a single carabiner. The symmetrical shape they have centred the load when you attach pulleys or webbing. They feature a smooth top and bottom and are both adaptable and cheap. But on the other hand, they can be heavy and have a small gate, so consider the options carefully.
Types of Gates
Non-locking Gates
Straight
These gates look like the name suggests, straight from one end to the other. They're very versatile, and this makes them popular among both experienced and beginner climbers. They have multiple purposes but are mostly used for racking gear. Straight gates are easy to open. Their spring mechanism makes them easy to close as well because they close automatically as soon as you release them.
They also exist in the shape of a keylock carabiner. This means there’s a smooth notch at the point, and the gate and the nose touch there. This stops the carabiner from intertwining and grabbing the rest of the ropes and equipment. You'll probably have to pay a little bit more for this feature, but it's a great bonus to keep you secure in case you forget to lock it yourself.
Bent
This is a gate designed with a little curve. It's one of the most practical gates of carabiner hooks because it has the same spring locking mechanism. Don't clip it directly onto your safety equipment because it’s meant for quickdraws. If you don’t follow the instructions and don’t use it the right way, it can unclip and put you at serious risk of injury.
Wire
Instead of a thicker gate, this carabiner has a loop made of stainless steel. It's made this way to reduce the weight and avoid the need for extra parts like with conventional gates. Because of how they’re designed, we get a wider gate opening and if you’re climbing in wet and cold weather, they’re less likely to freeze. Although they don't appear to be as durable as conventional designs, most wire gates are very strong.
Locking Gates
To make them as secure as possible, manufacturers added an additional sleeve to these gates. You'll feel safer and more stable with them. They cost a little bit more than non-locking ones, but it's worth the expense because you'll know the gate won't open when it shouldn't. If you want to release the nose from the gate, you’ll need to turn the twist lock. There's one disadvantage though. Because of the spring-loaded design, these gates are more prone to wear and tear.
Size
You can choose between 3 available sizes, full, small and mini. When you’re working with quickdraws, stoppers or hexes, you’ll need a full-size carabiner. These climbing carabiners are easy to work with and are very suitable for people with large hands and those who wear gloves. They weigh around 30g and can handle more equipment at the same time.
Mini and small carabiners are useful when you want to save on weight during the climb. Both of them can be strong and durable and weigh around 22g. But if you have big hands or use gloves, dealing with them might be difficult.
Materials
Stainless steel and aluminium are the 2 best materials for carabiners. They’re almost equal in quality and have their strengths and weaknesses. Stainless steel is stronger than aluminium but it’s also heavier. This is why they’re perfect for high-risk climbing. Aluminium ones are good for low-risk climbs and are lighter than stainless steel. Every climber appreciates if even the smallest weight can get taken off their shoulders during the climb. So, this might be the deciding factor when you buy carabiners.
Lifespan
Taking good care of your carabiners can make a big difference in their lifespan. This also depends on how often you use them and in what weather conditions. Climbing close to salty waters can lead to corrosion if you don’t wash them after every use. The rope can also damage them from all the top-roping and lowering. If you see some type of damage on them, don’t use the carabiners anymore, because even the slightest damage can turn into a fatal mistake. Replace them as soon as you can.
